Highlands

Nowadays the interior of Iceland is crossed by several marked roads. These routes have been known for centuries as they were used by inhabitants of the northern and north-east parts of the island. Every year they took these roads when they were heading to Thingvellir for the annual gathering of the Althingi (parliamentary deliberations). It is worth knowing that most of the side roads and the entire interior are strewn with many more of less visible gravel roads which are often cut by streams or boulders. If you plan to reach the most interesting places a good all-terrain vehicle with four-wheel drive is the only possible way to avoid being cut off from the world due to unexpected road conditions. Although Suzuki Jimny, Ducia Duster and many other small SUV’s are tagged 4X4, these cars are not suitable for roads with deep river crossings.
It is also worth to remember that weather conditions can suddenly change quickly at any time and the connectivity of mobile phones in the highlands can be poor to non-existing. There can be be quite strong sandstorms in the southern part of the island. Road signs will notify you about this. The wind can be so strong at times that it even rolls over larger cars. In case of danger it is good to take shelter in one of the houses (Hus) from where you should call for help.

Kjölur (road no F35)

This route is also called Kjalvegur and starts just behind the Gullfoss waterfall in the southwest (in the Golden Circle area). The road connects the south with the north and ends at the ringroad between the villages of Varmahlíð and Blönduós in north Iceland. Its length is just about 164 km but the journey usually takes about 5-7 hours on average. The surface of the road is made of sand and smaller stones which can be annoying. Nevertheless this is the only road through the interior of Iceland that can be driven with an ordinary car (without four-wheel drive). The route can be used as a shortcut between the southern and northern parts of the island during the summer months. This route was known in medieval times (as written in the Icelandic sagas) and has been considered a dangerous route for centuries because of marauding robbers. The road leads through and along places such as Þjófadalir (thieves’ valley), the hot springs of the Hveravellir valley and via road F347 to the magnificent chain of volcanic mountains – Kerlingarfjöll.

Öskjuleið (road no F88)

This is one of the most beautiful and scenic routes leading through the highlands. The landscape is almost like the moon here. Along the way we pass natural attractions such as the volcanoes Askja and Herðubreið. It was here that the astronauts of the Apollo-spaceship were preparing for their moon landing. The trail leads through deserted desert areas where dangerous sandstorms can occur. Very often, vehicles get in trouble in this area. Some cars being bogged down and stuck in the sand or malfunction of the car while crossing a river due to deep water of streams or rivers. That is why it is not worth trying to pass this beautiful route if you do not have a larger 4×4 car with proper 4-wheel drive and sufficient ground clearance!!

Have you ever been in the middle of a complete wasteland?

The central part of Iceland is due to its harsh climate always been inhabited and only accessible for visitors in summertime (roughly from July to the end of September). Apart from the few roads that lead through the highlands its nature is almost untouched. The wilderness exists of a small number of plants (mainly in small oases concentrated around rivers), glaciers, deserts of black sand, hot springs and active volcanoes.
There are two main roads connecting the north with the south. The western route is called Kjolur (Route F35). It starts just behind the Gullfoss waterfall in the Golden Circle region and ends in the north near the village of Varmahlid and connects to the ring road. Only this highland road can also be driven with a 2-wheel drive car. However, if you rent a car in Iceland you will need a 4-wheel drive car as only those are allowed on F-roads. The road leads you in between Langjokull and Hofjokull and passes through the geothermal area of Hveravellir. The route can be used during the summer months as a shortcut between the southern and northern parts of the country.
The second, more central route (route F26) leads through the black sand desert of the Sprengisandur area. This gravel / stone road is bumpy and is often interrupted by rivers which, depending on the time of day and year, can only be crossed with a real 4-wheel drive vehicle to conquer the deep and dangerous rivers. The Sprengisandur route passes between glaciers and ends southeast from Akureyri close to the Godafoss.

My favorite place in the highlands is the areas around the volcano Askja. The volcanic crater Viti (Hell) is a place where you can bathe in a naturally heated lake. Another, more hidden geothermal field, is called Kitefjoll. Kitefjoll is located on the edge and underneath the north side of Vatnajokull glacier. The warmth creates fantastic but constantly changing caves in the ice of the glacier.
Two other fabulous regions of the highlands are located in the south Iceland. Nature reserve Thorsmork is one of the most popular tourist areas in the country. The geothermal area of Landmannalaugar is an extra-ordinary location with many hike-opportunities through multicolored mountains and steaming lava fields.

1. Askja

Askja is a stratovolcano with a volcanic crater. It is located in the eastern part of the highlands and surrounded by the mountains of Dyngjufjoll. It is considered a group of volcanoes due to the layers of lava resulting from subsequent explosions that lasted for over 1000 years.
It is also in this area where astronauts of the Apollo program were training to prepare them for their mission on the moon. Their main goal was to study the geology of the Viti crater in Askja.
The “Viti” crater is the result of the volcanic eruption in 1875. The water in the lake is still warm! It is worth descending to the crater and immerse yourself in the thermal water which has a water temperature of approx. 30 ° C. Until 1875 the volcano Askja was practically unknown. However due to its gigantic and catastrophic eruption in March 1875 the volcanic dust that formed after the explosion killed almost all the life stock and poisoned the earth. After the eruption many inhabitants of eastern and northern Iceland decided to emigrate to America.
The last eruption of the Askja was in 1961.
Askja can only be visited in the summer. For most of the year the area is not accessible as the roads are closed and impassable due to heavy snowfall and strong winds in this area.

2. Hveravellir

Hveravellir Nature reserve is located near the Kjalvegur road which goes between the two large glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull. The reserve is one of the last areas of wild and unspoilt nature in Europe. Visitors and enjoy unbelievable views, unspoilt nature and a unique landscape. From Hveravellir one of the most popular Icelandic hiking trails, Laugavegur, leads all the way to the Thorsmork reserve.
Stretching all the way to the foot of the Langjökull glacier Hveravellir is a geothermal hot spot with smoking volcanic fumes (fumarole) and gurgling waters. The reserve can be visited in both winter and summer. The area around Hveravellir is literally breathtaking. The surrounding glaciers, craters and lava fields are very photogenic.

What to do in Hveravellir?
Hveravellir is one of the most popular Icelandic oases in central Iceland. Regardless of whether you are travelling on foot, by car or on an Icelandic horse it is worth stopping for a moment of relaxation, swimming in hot springs, walking along the tourist trail or simply drinking a cup of hot chocolate in the accommodation.

3. Kerlingarfjoll

The Kerlingarfjoll mountain range lies in the shadow of the Hofsjökull glacier near the Kjolur road. The local legend says that the mountain is haunted by a woman’s ghost. This female Troll turned into a stone when she was on her way back from a fishing trip.
Kerlingarfjoll is a 1,477 m high mountain chain in the Icelandic Plateau near the Kjolur road. The mountain range is part of a large volcanic system. In this mountain area there are numerous hot, smoking springs and streams. In the mountains there is also a red rhyolite (a kind of crystal), which adds an amazing and magical look to the mountaintops.
Kerlingarfjoll was also known as a popular summer ski resort but was dismantled in 2000. Since 2000 it has become a simple mountain resort. The resort offers housed accommodation as well as a camping and dining for guests arriving in the area. The area is known for several great hiking trails.

4. Kjölur

Kjölur is a plateau in the mountains of Iceland, roughly referred to as the area between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull. It lies at an altitude of around 600-700 meters.
This beautiful raw desert landscape attracts many tourists during the summer months between July and September. But even during this holiday period travelers must be careful and prepared for sudden weather changes even snowstorms. There have been several hikers who died while wandering through the Kjolur area. A known incident regarded two brothers Bjarni and Einar Halldórsson. In the autumn of 1780 they crossed the highlands with their travelcompanions to buy sheep and horses in the south of the country. On the way back they were taken by suprise by a harsh snowstorm near the Kjalfell mountain and, unfortunately, they died together with all their life stock. Their bones were found 65 years later by somebody. The place was later named “Bone-hill” (Beinahóll).
Tourists who are camping in the area reported mysterious shadows of people and animals wandering in the evening on the surrounding hills.

5. Kverkfjoll

Kverkfjoll is the second highest volcano and located in a less accessible central area of Iceland. The volcano was separated by the Kverkjokull glacier which resulted in a deep valley here with amazing shades of red, black and green.
The Kverkfjoll mountain range is a set of peaks formed by a large central volcano at the northern end of the Vatnajokull ice cap. It is the third largest mountain range in Iceland after Öræfajökull and Bárdarbunga. The area hides the region’s greatest treasures. The hot magma chambers that form under the glacier create amazingly beautiful ice caves.
The highest peak Skarphedinstindur is located in the eastern part of the region and has height of 1936m. The mountains have been divided into the eastern and western part which is connected by a wide pass known as Kverk. The Kverkjokull glacier ends northwest in the pass in a mountain plateau that is about 900 m above sea level.

6. Laki and Lakagigar

Laki is the name of a volcano. Its eruption in 1783 killed almost everything that lived in Iceland. The lava and poisonous gasses wiped out farms and cattle from the ground causing a nationwide shortage of food, clean water and the death of 25% of the island’s inhabitants.
The devastating eruptions of Laki
The eruption of 1783 has been the largest eruption in Icelands history so far. Although the Laki volcano is currently dormant it left a lot of evidence of its explosion. The explosions started in June 1783 and lasted about 8 months. Due to the explosions multiple craters arose whicha are currenltly known as the Lakagigar craters. Over 42 billion tons of basalt lava were poored out by the volcano and created a huge lavafield: Eldhraun. The clouds of poisonous gases heavily polluted the soil which led to the death of more than half of all livestock in Iceland and the destruction of crops. The shortages and hunger after the volcanic eruption resulted in the death of 25% of Iceland’s population.
Poisonous gases and ashes also had a huge impact on the whole continent where huge amount of crops were destroyed.

Lakagigar craters
The Lakagigar area is a spectacular red-black lava formation extending over an area of about 25 kilometers. Many craters are still warm and steaming. The view from above will delight every visitor.
The Laki volcano is located in the southwestern part of the Vatnajökull National Park, near the town of Kirkjubaejarklaustur on the south coast. Lakagigar can only be reached by 4-wheel drive car.

7. Landmannalaugur

Landmannalaugur is one of the most beautiful regions in Iceland. It inspires and delights with a pallet of countless colors, unusual vegetation, hot springs and rock formations. Landmannalaugur is a mountain belt in the south of Iceland close to the Hekla volcano. In Landmannalaugur you will see the famous colorful, rhyolite mountains, innumerable lava fields, canyons and rivers.

Tourism in Landmannalaugar
Hiking in the Landmannalaugar area is a very popular way of traveling in Iceland. This area is known for the famous tourist route “Laugavegurinn” which stretches about 55 km to the Thorsmork area. To enjoy this hiking trail it is advisable to schedule 3-5 days to complete your hike.
For those who want to go faster there are many other and shorter tourist routes in the area.
There is no entrance fee to access Landmannalaugur but there is a visitor-fee for the facilities. There is a campsite and sleeping bag accommodation with washing and cooking facilities. In the summer there are daily buses from the BSI-bus station in Reykjavik. If you travel there by car it is essential you have a good 4-wheel drive because the F-road is bumpy with lots of stones and a few rivers to cross.

8.  Thorsmork

The beautiful valley in the south of Iceland which is enclosed between the glaciers Tindafjallajokull, Myrdalsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull was named Thorsmork in honor of the Norse god Thor.
Thorsmork is one of the most popular tourist areas in Iceland.
There are many great longer and shorter walking routes in the area. The longest hike is the approx. 55km long Laugavegur-trail to Landmannalaugar goes between glaciers. Shorter day hiking trips are for example going to the Stakkholtsgja canyon with a waterfall or leading to the peaks of the surrounding mountains. These hikes are also very interesting and became recently more and more popular. Thormork has been a protected area since 1921 and is under the care of the national Forestry. Due to its hidden location between the three glaciers is the weather in Thorsmork often much nicer and milder than its surroundings.
Thorsmork and the eruption 2010
To reach the Thorsmork valley you have to cross the river Krossa. This deep, fast and cold glacier river is known for its unexpected changes of riverbed and can best be crossed by specialized bus or car.
Because the Thorsmork Valley is close to many volcanoes, such as the powerful Katla which lies beneath the Myrdalsjokull glacier, the landscape of the region has been shaped by numerous eruptions and floods. In the spring of 2010 the eruption of the infamous Eyjafjallajokull volcano the valley was largely covered with a thick layer of volcanic ash. It took many months before the fragile nature of Thorsmork returned to normal.